Housing on these animals can be very difficult to accomidate for. As babies a pair can be housed in a 40g breeder tank. Although this is not really reccomended as there is sometimes mutilation that can occur. An adult must have a bare minimum of 8x4x3(LWH). They do not climb much so height really isn't the most important thing but you will need at least 3 feet of heighth(find out why later).

I find that the most appropriate substrate is Cypress mulch. Make sure that there is enough in there so that the animal can burrow. 6" is normaly the best amount for babies and a 12" is best for adults(hence the 3 feet of height).

As far as decorations go you don't really need to be too extravagant with this. Put something in there so that the can climb at least a little bit(although many won't). They need a water bowl that they can completely submerge themselves in. As babies this is not problem, but as adults this can be hader to find. I reccomend a cat litterbox filled to the brim. Make sure that the water is on the hot side to help with humidity and to keep it warmer.

Hides are a definate. These guys will not always use their hides as they like to burrow, but they should be given the oppurtunity. As adults a cardboard box flipped over works just fine. Make sure one hide is on the cool side and one at or near the hot side. I say near because your hot side may be completely a water bowl.

I will say it again and again, but I believe the key to keeping any reptile is what...thermoregulation. Meaning that you have a hot side and a cool side so that the animal can pick its own temperature.

 A good basking temperature to maintane is about 110-120 degrees farenheit. With breeding animals(especialy females) the basking temperature should be raised to 120 plus. This allows the reptile to digest its food items much easier and quickly. The cold side of the enclosure should be about 80-85 degrees. The hot side should be fine as long as you maintain these temperatures stated above.

A full spectrum of light is required for these animals. I reccomend a 10.0 UVB Reptisun bulb. This helps the animal produce D3 through the light source. Some people say that the animal is fine with just supplementing with UVB, but I find that it's better to be safe than sorry.

These guys need a lot of humidity. The humidity needs to be at least 75% and can go all the way up to 90%. This may be hard to do in some enclosures to what I do is place the light in the enclosure(far enough away that the animal can't reach it) and put a plastic lid over the entire container. I also place the basking bulb directly over the water dish to help get the correct humidity levels.  

I don't know much about the hibernation of these animals as I have not had to go through it before. What I do know is this-

These animals can and probably will hibernate. Make absolutely certain that the animals has not eaten a week prior to hibernation. The food will literally rot in their stomach if they have. Start to slowly reduce the amount of light they get during the day and their food intake and eventualy they will have very little light(about 8 hours a day) and no food. Your animal may come out during hibernation(brumation is the technical term). He will be very sluggish and slow. Do not feed him. When you are ready for your animals to come out of brumation start to length the light schedule. Until it is again at its original time length(about 12-14 hours a day). The first day that you leave the lights on for 12 hours feed your tegu.

I do not find brumation as a must unless you plan on breeding the animal. I plan on at least trying to keep mine out of brumation either until I want to breed her or she is older and I want to "expirement". Some people claim that it is impossible to keep their animals out of brumation so I guess I will just have to wait and see.

When younger Reds will eat much more protien than they will fruits. A big mistake that first time keepers don't reilize is that these animals need fruit just as much as the need protien. Many will not start to consume it very often until a year old, but it should still be provided for those times that they do have the "sweet tooth". Some appropriate food items of these animals are as followed mice(of appropriate size), crickets, mealworms, superworms, silkworms, and other insects(not caught oustside), scrambled eggs, turkey, strawberries, grapes, and bannanas. Make sure to feed the animal(insects and other bugs) outside of its cage in another tank so that the animal does not accidentaly consume any of its bedding and possibly get impacted.

I can never stress enough how important supplementing is. These animals have a much better chance of surviving without it then most carniverous lizards, due to the amount of calcium in many of their food items(ie. pinkies). It is still very much needed. I supplementing everything my animals eat. I supplement calcium with no phosphorus or D3 daily(make sure there is no D3 because too much can poison the animal), I supplementing with bee pollen and calcium with D3 and no phosphorus every third day.

From what I've read these guys are pretty high maintenance, especially as adults. Due to the fact that they need a high percentage of humidity their cage needs to be misted a minimum of once a day(or other means of keepint the humidity high). They need their food chopped up daily. Remember too these are big animals, they are going to make well big poo. One really big part is the cage. You are more than likely going to have to build your own cage(or pay someone to do it). That can be hard work and can cost a bit. Even a simple 8x4x4 cage can take awhile to build.

They also require a soak once every 2-3 dys. Fill the bathtub up just enough so that the animal can completely submerge itself. Let it sit in there for about 15 minutes and your good to go.

Many reptile dealers are scam artists. They'll sell their animals no matter what they have to do to get rid of it, even if it means lieing to you. So, you want to make sure your animals is healthy when you buy it. First off check for signs of dehydration such as ruffled skin. If you pinch the skin(lightly) it should fold back into place. Make sure that the animal is not skinny. Check for protruding bones such as the spine of hips. Make sure the leg muscles aren't drooping. Check for fece smears on or near the cloaca(rump). This could mean that the animal has diahria and is probably sick. Ask to see if the eat. If it has already been fed it may be a good idea to come back again at a different feeding time. Make sure the animal is active. It should not be laying down on the ground not moving with its eyes closed. Lastly check for signs of respiratory infection. Make sure there is no gaping, runny eyes or nose, crusty lips, ect.

Sexing and Mating